Dining Out: The Fish Friar Swims Strong
Downtown Syracuse eatery serves up fresh catches
By Christopher Malone
The season of Lent continues as this review takes place. So, why not get some fish? It made sense to me at the time.
There are many places across Central New York serving up the hydrodynamic creatures and crustaceans. Between churches, fire departments and the Polish Home to note, anyone looking for haddock or the rest of the school of options doesn’t have to spend much time weighing options this time of year.
Then there are restaurants, like The Fish Friar in downtown Syracuse, serving up seafood year-round.
The eatery is located in the historic Courier Building, next to City Hall.
The building is the site where Daniel Webster, secretary of state for President Millard Fillmore, gave his “Syracuse Speech” in 1851, chastising the city for its notable resistance to the Fugitive Slave Law, calling it treasonous.
What’s not treasonous: fresh seafood. When the Fish Friar surfaced in Syracuse in 2017, I remembered its mission to serve up water dwellers to the people. It’s still holding to its promise.
To kick off the meal, aside from a can of Boddington’s ($7), the calamari ($11) starter sounded appetizing. The mix of rings and tentacles — the former more numerous than the latter. The crispy squid wasn’t overburdened by coating and paired well with the roasted reds and house lemon mayo.
The starter’s size is easily shareable. The mayo for dipping was also a bright addition. It did zest things up, complimenting the already flavorful calamari.
The scallop roll options were eye-catching. The classic roll ($19) is served with lemon mayo, lettuce and scallions over rice pilaf. If a patron isn’t feeling a roll, there is the option to have it served as a bowl, which I tried.
The flavor was really good. The seared scallops held a slight smokiness and weren’t dry or overly chewy. With the slightly creamy pilaf and greens, it added up to a delicious
and light option.
The only issue with this option is the price. Yes, it’s understood there’s a cost when it comes to ordering seafood. Despite their great quality and taste, the six scallops with circumferences falling between the sizes of a nickel and dime didn’t add up to much.
On The Fish Friar’s current menu, a half dozen shrimp po’boy options don’t make decision-making easy. Similar to the scallop options, a customer can order the po’boy as a bowl, a perfect option for those with gluten-free diets. But for those who do not have restrictions, why pass up everything there is to love about po’boy bread?
I’ve yet to find a New York or elsewhere po’boy as done up as big as what I’ve enjoyed in New Orleans — yes, they have a go-big-or-go-home philosophy about the staple down there — but The Fish Friar’s is pretty great, proving big things do come in small packages.
The báhn mi ($14) won me over. Four crispy jumbo shrimp were served up with pickled red peppers, cherry peppers, cucumber, carrots and topped with a spicy mayo. The single roll po’boy may not be stuffed to the gills but the flavor is not lacking. The shrimp is big and crispy and the pickled vegetables add up to something special. Plus, that spicy mayo — it’s a nice little kick that slowly creeps in. Instead of bursting through the door like a disheveled neighbor, it opens the door a little bit, sticks its head in and says, “Here’s Johnny!”
It’s not crazy spicy but it makes itself present.
Speaking of being present, the special of the day was a smoked salmon grilled cheese sandwich served with the Friar’s spicy haddock bisque ($16). It sounded too good to be true. Fortunately, it was real and it was spectacular.
Sandwiched between seared artisan bread — sharp cheddar, onions and a generous amount of salmon melded together for a mighty sandwich. The “adult” grilled cheese didn’t short on anything, especially flavor. It also dipped well into the bisque.
The haddock bisque is how it sounds: chunks of the eponymous swimmer can be found within the thick, creamy tomato base. Similar to the sauce on the po’boy, the bisque’s spiciness creeps in. Where I could enjoy a cup year-round, it’s a perfect addition for a cold, snowy winter day.
Before tip, the bill came to $72 and change.
The Fish Friar is certainly not floundering.
After its renovation almost two years ago, the place still looks better than ever. The darkened atmosphere continues to show off a chic take on local restaurant industry.
While it focuses on a niche cuisine, the welcoming restaurant is a comfortable place to hang out, whether it’s at the bar or at one of the several tables. Plus, as spring approaches, patrons can anticipate the three-season al fresco dining option in front of the restaurant.
The Fish Friar
239 E. Genesee St., Syracuse, NY 13202
315-468-FISH (3474)
Sunday – Monday: Closed
Tuesday – Wednesday: 4 – 9 p.m.
Thursday: noon – 9 p.m.
Friday: noon – 10 p.m.
Saturday: 4 – 10 p.m.